TL; DR – I have a broad back! Clever patterns can be really challenging to modify!
When I made my second Atlas Wrap Dress, as fantastic as it looks, I didn’t particularly like the fit. And, as I am coming to terms with my new measurements, I realized that I probably needed a different size. So, with a heavy heart, I gave it away (as well as my [SOB] Elodie wrap dresses), printed the larger size. I also, like I did for the second Atlas, lengthened the skirt.
Except this time, I realized that that was part of the problem.
The lighter, flowing fabric that I used on Atlas II masked the problem, but using this stiffer curtain fabric (yes, it was a curtain from Ikea) showed that lengthening the skirt impacted the built-on skirt tie – it didn’t fold over properly, taking half the skirt with it. So, I had to widen the skirt piece. I probably should have lengthen the tie, but I was now worried it would mess it up again. So one tie is a little shorter than the other, but it still works, so HOORAY!
I re-drafted the pattern piece so I can recreate it the next time.
So, the chest measurements worked, the waist measurements worked, the clever patters pieces all worked again. AND IT STILL DID NOT FIT WHAT THE HELL?!?!?!?
It pulled in the back. I originally made it with sleeves, and it pulled SO BADLY. I pitched the problem to a FB sewing group, and everyone came back saying I needed to make a broad back adjustment. Seeing as I was out of fabric (and used almost all of the useful scraps for adjusting the skirt and tie), I would have to save that pattern adjustment for the next time.
For now, I thought it would work to just make a sleeveless version. So I took out the sleeves, added bust darts to shore up the armhole, did a bias finish on them, and…
This is literally the most modifications I’ve ever done to a pattern in order to make it fit. And I still have more to make, but I am so glad I did.
I might be getting good at this?